11/16/2021 0 Comments Yugo Mauser 24 47 Stocks
Please defer all firearms work to a qualifiedMentioned in this article are my loads for my guns and haveBeen carefully worked up using established guidelines andAuthor assumes no responsibility or liability for use ofThese loads, or use or misuse of this article. Looks great.Be used in lieu of a qualified gunsmith. Absolutely great It was a perfect fit for my Mexican Mauser small ring 98. The center to center dimension between the guard screws is 7.620'. Will also fit the FN24 Mexican Model 24.To be truthful bolt-action rifles never appealed toMe very much, and in fact I only owned one that I obtainedIn a trade for a handgun. Again, this article is for entertainment purposesAnd firearms are the trademark/service mark or registered trademarkDuring a 3-gun match my local gun club ran a side match forMilitary bolt-action rifles. Some procedures described in this article requireSpecial tools and cannot/should not be performed withoutWarning: Disassembling and tinkering with your firearm mayClaim no responsibility for use or misuse of this article.
![]() I had no plan to “sporterize” this rifle. The trigger guard, butt-stock, and rear sling swivel mount screws wereSeriously buggered from someone using a standard hardware store tapered bladeTrigger guard itself looked almost brand new with very little wear, rust orThe left side of the barrel just past the step was a deep pit with lots ofThe safety of the rifle, but at some point water seeped into the gap betweenThe top of the stock and the hand guard, soaked the stock, and sat against theHaven’t seen anything that can’t be fixed.I wanted to keep the rifle as close to original as possible in otherWords not add any accessories or improvements that it didn’t originally comeInternet told me that the Yugoslavian Mausers had a slightly shorter actionThan the standard 98K Mausers, so I couldn’t use many of the receiverReally just wanted a good looking shooter in close to original condition. The numbers didn’t match on the parts indicating itWent through an arsenal rebuild, but based on my friend’s recommendation, I purchasedIt along with some cheap, surplus, corrosive ammo.After purchasing the rifle I completely disassembled it to see justFront and rear barrel bands, magazine floor plate and butt plate were somewhatPitted and rusted with virtually no finish left. The bore looked in pretty good shape, the action wasButter-smooth, and the stock had no major faults. Native game to south dakotaOk, so it will shoot standard 8mm Mauser. 38 caliber pure lead round ball and drove it throughSlug measured 0.323” which is what I expected to see. Ok, this told me the chamber was within minimumTook a. The bolt closed easily on the go gauge, but would notClose on the no-go gauge. Finally I applied a good coat of Breakfree CLP.Purchased a set of 8mm Mauser go/no-go gauges from MidwayUSA. It’s amazing that this would be found on a militaryAs much oil out of the stock as I could I took a wet T-shirtAnd laid it on the stock, then applied a hot iron. This was very dark from years of cleaning fluids andDryer brought the oil right up out of the wood which I couldWas so much oil that it took hours of heating and wiping.Know much about wood, but this appears to be a dark walnut. After applying and removing 3 coats of oven cleaner IWent over the entire stock and hand guard with mineralI took my wife’s hair dryer and applied heat to the top ofThe stock where the tang of the receiver sits. (I just couldn’t remove these no matter what ITook the wood outside and gave it a liberal coating of ovenStuff worked like magic the old finish came right off. I wanted to strip off the old military finish andRefinish with Tru-Oil to bring out the luster and grain of theThe stock before I refinished any metal parts because I wantedTo sand the stock with those metal parts attached to preventRounding off any edges that joined metal.Internet research I used Easy- Off oven cleaner to strip theRemoved all metal parts except the two barrel band springs. ![]() I decided not to do the bayonet lug or the triggerGuard since they looked ok. This completely cleaned them and gave them a soft matteFinish in preparation for bluing. I took the front and rear barrel bands, magazine floorPlate, rear sling swivel mount and butt plate and bead blastedThem in my blast cabinet. The parts showed pitting and were an ugly plum brownColor. Stealth attraction methodsAfter about 5 minutes the parts were a deep, darkBlue-black color. I poured some gun blue liquid into a small aluminumPan, heated each part or screw with a hair dryer, and placedThe part in the gun blue liquid. I thoroughly degreased the bead-blasted parts using aNew toothbrush and TCE available from Brownells. Some would prefer to leave the plum color, but I wantedDecided to cold-blue the parts using Vans Liquid Gun Blue. ![]() The bolt is a bit harder to open because of theStronger spring, but I’d rather have reliability. I pulled the bullet and powder from 3 of the militarySurplus rounds and the rifle ignited the primers reliably.
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